Spring Summer 27 locates its origins not in the first swatch chosen, nor in the first sample (‘telina’) made, but in the accumulated knowledge of generations of specialised labour dispersed across Northern Italy. 

I should now list the crafts that have been diligently sourced here: fine mohair and wool from heritage mills in Biella; silk from a workshop in Follina; and cashmere from Cagli.

I should describe the “dry” quality of the high-twist yarns that give the pieces their papery hand feel; the double fabrics left unlined for a clean, uncomplicated finish; the tumbling of garments that achieve the quality of pieces already worn; and the composite colours chosen for their specificity. 

The blacks that lean brown, grey and green; the whites that are warmed by trace tones; and the moments of visual levity that evoke the sun-faded hues of Venice — from the composite blues and greenish-yellows of the lagoon to the desaturated reddish-pinks of Venetian plaster. 

But with all this, I would not be telling you of the collection’s true essence; for while descriptions of its pieces begin to awaken desire one at a time, it is only when you slip your hand into a pocket one morning that the particular finish, hand feel and weight will awaken all at once and surround you. At this moment, the collection appears to you as a whole, all at once: a curated selection of classic silhouettes passed through a particular Italian manufacturing tradition, and of which you are now a part.¹